Van Der Velden recalls walking through plantations with howler monkeys in the trees and mangoes falling to the ground with a thud. She’s gleaned insights, from talking to locals in Paris – “the home of chocolate”; she thinks French chocolate is cleaner than creamy Swiss styles – and from the books of masters. Patrick Roger, with six boutiques and a new laboratory in the Paris suburbs, is one source of wisdom. Chantal Coady, a chocolatiere based in London, described on the internet as “cocoa farmer, beekeeper, mentor, wife, mother”, is another. Her book Real Chocolate “marked a defining moment” for Van Der Velden.