Rococo’s Master Chocolatier, Laurent, has over 25 years of pastry experience and 10 years of chocolate experience. Regarding technical skill, anything this man does not know about chocolate work is not worth knowing, and he knows a lot. Since Laurent has come to lead the team at Rococo I have seen a distinct change in their flavours, and for the better. Laurent has also introduced seasonal collections, this being part of the Summer collection, and he is very open to feedback and critique, which I find admirable. Unfortunately, I found this the least well rounded of Rococo’s collection shown last night. It has been lovely to see this particular flavour evolve over the past couple of months and I do think they are just very, nearly there [the first sample I tried was reminiscent of a good pasta pesto], however I found the olive oil a lot heavier than William’s, leaving a fatty coating in the mouth. There was a very crisp, clean lemon flavour, reminiscent of lounging under the shade of lemon groves in Sicily, which I enjoyed but it did overpower the flavour of the chocolate. The end note, however, was very pleasing; a refreshing lemon sparkle with a delicate basil top note. It is an amiable chocolate but I think if they bought the chocolate flavour forward and pulled back a little with the olive oil it would be perhaps the star of their summer collection.
Unfortunately, I have to say that the conditions of tasting were disastrous on that evening and this didn’t help reflect the actual quality of Paul, William or my work. Critics are always welcome as this helps make recipes and flavors evolve to reach perfection, but we have to ensure that we can present our products at their best in the best tasting environment
I personally may have gone for a bit more lemon and less basil, and really the olive oil bit is pretty much down to personal taste.